Skip to main content

A New Dust Cover For My Handi Quilter Machine

I have been using a sheet as a dust cover on my Handi Quilter HQ16 longarm machine. Not pretty, but it did the job.

The other day I was shopping at my local quilt store and she had a bolt of fabric that called to me and said, "Hey! I would make a great cover for your longarm machine." The fabric pattern is called Laugh Love Quilt by Amy Hamberlin for Henry Glass Fabrics.

I knew there was a free download pattern on the Handi Quilt website so I checked to see how much yardage I would need before leaving the store. The pattern is for their Avante 18 (they also include info for the Fusion 24). They also include a pattern size if your machine has the Prostitcher--mine does not.

The HQ instructions are really brief and not very informative. There are not many pictures of completed covers to give an idea on what the finished product is like. I found a couple of blog posts for the sit down version covers that were somewhat helpful. Otherwise I would be on my own.

I would need 2-1/2 yards of the main fabric and 2-2/3 yards of a backing fabric (I used inexpensive muslin). The instructions did not include how much binding fabric I would need. Once I was home I was able to calculate the approximate yardage for binding and pulled the 2/3 yards of fabric from my stash.

It took me several hours to adjust the pattern dimensions and modify the instructions. I added additional height (22" overall) so it would cover my carriage. I was mostly pleased with the finished product. It was a bit bigger than I would have liked but does the trick. The Avante 18 is bigger than my HQ16 so no wonder it was a bit baggy for my machine. 

Finished Cover

Here is how I made my cover.

Dust Cover for Handi Quilter Machine

Materials Used:
2-1/2 yards 43/44” wide fabric for the top
2-3/4 yards 43/44” wide fabric for the backing (I used inexpensive muslin)
2/3 yard 43/44” wide fabric for the binding (approximately 8 yards bias cut binding needed)
Batting to match size of backing
Hook and Loop (either dots or strips cut into 1” sections)

Note: All seams use ½” seam allowance.
1. Quilt as desired entire top and backing fabrics on your longarm machine.
2. Cut pieces per pattern dimensions. This is set up to allow for directional fabric, but no Prostitcher piece.
Fabric Layout

If I had to do it over again, I would make the side pieces a trapezoidal shape so the back is shorter in height than the front. I would like taper the top pieces so the back width is narrower than the front. But it isn't necessary - the cover works if it is shaped as a cube.

Note: if you want to tailor your cover to be more fitted, measure and cut as follows:
Height of machine at the front from table bed to top of machine plus 1”
Height of machine at the back plus 1”
Width of machine at the front plus 1”
Adjust side panel pieces to new dimensions. Draw a line from the top down to the back.  Adjust back panel pieces to match adjusted back height on side panel.

Side Panel Size Adjustment

If you adjust the width of the front panel, you will either need to adjust the shape and size of the top side piece for the back to be narrower, or adjust the width of the top side and back pieces to keep more of a cube shape. Add 2” to the adjusted front panel width, and then divide that measurement in half to get the new back panel width dimension.
Top Panel Side Adjustments

3. Finish all edges that will not have binding by either using a zigzag stitch or serging. I laid out all of my pieces on the floor and marked the edges that will get binding with a pin. It also helped me to visualize how the pieces would be sewn together.

Edges Zigzagged

Pieces Laid Out on Floor

4. Sew Top Right panel to Right Back Side panel along short edge, stopping and backstitching ½” from “zigzagged” corner. I marked my corners so I could see my stopping points. Remember to use ½” seam allowance.

Repeat for left side top and back panel.

Marking for 1/2" stopping points

5. Sew Top Right panel to Right side panel along long edge, stopping and backstitching ½” from “zigzagged” corners.

6. Sew Right Side Panel to back side panel, stopping and backstitching ½” from “zigzagged” corners. Tip: I flip down the one piece at the corner so I can sew the other seam and not worry about it getting caught. You should now have an actual corner formed where the three pieces come together.
Repeat for the left side.

Fold Corner Tip Down to Sew Second Seam

Completed Corner

7. Sew the Right Side panel to the right side of the Front panel (should be the long edge).

8. Sew the Left Side panel to the left side of the Front panel.

9. Position your longarm machine where you want it to rest on your table. Measure from the front of your machine to the front side of the take-up bar.

10. On the back side of the Right Side panel, measure and mark that same distance from the front seam line.  On my set up, I measured back 15” and then a second mark at 19”

11. Mark another line 4” back from that point.

12. Measure the height of your take-up bar and add 1”. Transfer that dimension to the side panel and mark up from the bottom edge. On mine, my top mark was 15”.

13. Using the Multi-Size Curved Corner Cutter ruler from Creative Grids, I used the 2” radius corner to draw a half circle at the top of my marks. If you don’t have that ruler, find something that is 4” across and use it to mark the half circle.

Marking for Cutout

14. At the bottom edge of the take-up bar area, radius the corners. I used the 1-1/2” corner on my ruler.

15. At the bottom edge of back side panel where the binding will go, radius that corner also.

16. Repeat markings for the left side panels. Then cut out both sides.

Cut Out for Take-up Bar

17. Make bias cut binding using 2-1/2” wide strips. I use the Creative Grids Bias Binding Simplified ruler for mine but use whatever method you prefer. You should use bias cut because of binding the curves for the take-up bar cutouts and radius corners.

18. Starting at either the Right or Left Top panel where it will attach to the Front Panel, sew your binding to the front side using 1/4" seam allowance. Continue the binding all around the unfinished edges until you get to the opposite Top panel edge.

Start of Binding

19. Fold binding to back side of cover and on the front side, stitch-in-the-ditch catching the binding on the underside.


20. Pin the top panel pieces to the front panel piece. The two top panel pieces should overlap about 1” in the center. Sew the seam, stopping and backstitching ½” from the two corners.

Overlap Top Panel Pieces

Finished Overlap

21. Test fit cover on your longarm machine and decide where you want the hook and loop pieces, especially around the thread mast area. Attach hook and loop pieces to top and back panel pieces.

22. Your new cover is now complete!

You can download the instructions here in PDF format.


  1. thank you for posting this I am going to make one

  2. ohhhh, I love this...but I have a tablette on top of mine, not sure how I can adjust this pattern for the tablette

    1. I sent you a message in hopes that you receive it. I need more information to help with the ProStitcher tablet.

  3. Thank you so much for your measurement guide and pictures! I was having a difficult time visualizing how it worked from just the original pattern. I have an Amara with pro-stitcher and your guide for measuring will be helpful. I too am using a king-sized sheet to cover it up and it's not only ugly it's difficult to get on & off.

  4. Thank you for your kindness in sharing your pattern. I am amazed at how much dust gets on my machine, now I will solve that problem with something pretty.

  5. This is wonderful- thank you!! I wanted to make a dust cover for my HQ Simply 16. You are very kind to share your pattern and instructions!

  6. Thank you so much!
    Any ideas for back Handles


    1. Rita - my HQ16 had the back handles and this fit over them just fine!


Post a Comment

Thanks for stopping by. Comments are always welcomed and appreciated!

Popular Posts

Pincushion with Thread Catcher Bag

I have been wanting to make my own pincushion and thread catcher bag for a while now. My mom gave me one awhile back but I have seem to have lost it in moving. The patterns I saw online just weren't what I wanted so it was time to come up with my own. I used the pattern posted at Sew Mama Sew! as my starting point. It wasn't exactly what I wanted but it was close. I didn't need the organizer part nor that large of a pincushion. I did like how the bag was removable however. On the other hand, I wanted the "cuff" of the bag to be on the outside so it would make it easier to empty the bag. I didn't want threads getting caught under the "lip" of the fabric. With some modifications, here is what I came up with. The only piece that I ended up purchasing was the button. Everything else was scraps I had on hand or found around the house. I probably could have found an old button but I saw this one at my local quilt shop and thought it would be perfec

No Sew Fringe Vest

Hey! Wait a minute! Isn't this blog about sewing? Why yes it is. But sometimes "projects" happen where sewing isn't needed. But it sure helps to have sewing and quilting tools. I need a costume for a 60's themed BBQ (where social distancing will be practiced). I looked for ideas online and saw where I could purchase a costume for $$. Why would I do that if I could make my own? I decided I needed a fringed vest as part of my outfit. Hmmmm...yeah, I could make one out of my fabric stash, but that is mostly cottons and I felt not suitable for what I was thinking. I ended up purchasing a men's black sleeveless t-shirt from Wally World for under $5. Purchased Shirt I laid out the t-shirt on my cutting table, face up, and smoothed out the wrinkles as best I could. I took a strip of 1" blue masking tape and placed it on the shirt just below the arm holes. This would be my stopping line when cutting the fringe. Using my 24" ruler and rotary cutte